Poodle Grooming Tips

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Poodle Grooming Tips

Because of the Poodle's quickly growing a coat, a trim and bath are usually necessary every six to eight weeks. If you have decided that you are going to be the one to take care of the coat, rather than a professional groomer, certain supplies must be on hand. For basic brushing, the pin-bristled brush does the best job. Make sure that the bristles are straight, not curved, and set fairly widely apart on a rubber base. Brushes with curved, widely spaced bristles can damage the coat. A slicker brush that is long in shape and has fine, closely set wires with a slight bend at the tips is recommended for ridding the coat of mats and tangles. A
coarse-toothed steel comb and a fine-toothed comb complete the list of tools needed to keep the coat unsnarled.

Clipping the coat requires the use of an electric clipper, preferably one with interchangeable blades. A small animal Clipper is highly recommended by professional groomers as it is lightweight and easily handled. The blades vary in size according to the area of the dog's body that is to be clipped, with the number of the blade designating how much hair it removes. The higher the number, the more hair it clips off.

It must be noted that these blades can get quite hot during clipping and burn the dog's skin, so it is recommended that you also purchase a spray lubricant designed to cool and lube the blades. Of course, you could also use hand clippers, but they are much more difficult than the electric to operate, and the entire clipping procedure will take quite a bit longer. Several sharp scissors will also be needed to apply the finishing touches to the look of the coat.

When you begin grooming your poodle, his hindquarter region is a good place to start. By beginning here, the dog cannot see what is occurring behind him, and he should not become nervous or annoyed. Remember, it is a very good rule to accustom your dog to the entire grooming procedure prior to attempting any major clipping. He should be well trained enough so that he will obey your "stay" commands while he is on the grooming table. Make it clear from the start that grooming is to be taken seriously. The procedure should neither be a game nor a wrestling match for either of you.

Begin your grooming routine by first looking for any mats or tangles. Carefully work your fingers through the coat, then repeat the procedure using the fine-toothed comb. If you should
find a mat, use your slicker brush or a matting comb. The coat should be brushed up and then down to loosen the matted hairs. Applying a tangle remover to the coat may also help to ease the problem. In any case, mats must be removed prior to the bath to avoid further tightening.

Once you have finished brushing the hindquarters, begin brushing out the hind legs with
quick, short, up and down strokes. Repeat the procedure with the front legs. After the legs are completely tangle-free, begin brushing the body, starting at the back end and working up to the neck region. Brush underneath the body, making sure you give this area a proper amount of attention as it is a prime area for matting. The head and ears should be done with great care, as these delicate areas provide much of the Poodle's beauty if groomed properly.

The Current Poodle Breed Standard (Part 2)

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The Current Poodle Breed Standard (Part 2)

Neck, Topline, & Body: The ideal Poodle has a neck that is "well-proportioned, strong and long enough to permit the head to be carried high and with dignity." The topline is "level, with the exception of a slight hollow just behind the shoulder."

The shoulders should be strong and "smoothly muscled," with the shoulder blade "well laid back and approximately the same length as the upper foreleg." (Well-laid-back means about 45 degrees.) The forelegs should be straight and parallel when viewed from the front. When seen from the side, the elbow should be "directly below the highest point of the shoulder."

The feet are "rather small, oval in shape with toes well arched and cushioned on thick firm pads." They should not turn in or out. The angle of the hindquarters balances that of the forequarters. The hind legs should be "straight and parallel" when viewed from the rear.

The chest should be "deep and moderately wide with well-sprung ribs." The loin is short, broad, and muscular. The tail is docked, "set on high and carried up." A tail that is set low, curled, or carried over the back is a major fault.

Gait: The show ring gait (movement) of a Poodle should be "a straightforward trot with light springy action, and strong hindquarters drive."

Coat: The coat can be "Curly of naturally harsh texture, dense throughout," or "Corded: hanging in tight even cords of varying length, longer on mane or body coat, head, and ears; shorter on puffs, bracelets, and pompons."

For showing, a Poodle must appear in one of the following traditional clips: a puppy clip, (for dogs under 12 months of age); the English saddle clip; the continental clip; or the sporting clip (for non-competitive classes like veterans or for stud classes).

Colors: Poodles may be of any solid color: apricot, black, blue, brown, cafe au lait, cream, gray, silver, or white, with black and white being the most common. Whatever the color, however, it must be solid. Any parti-colored dog, for instance a black dog with white paws or chest, is disqualified from the show ring-—although they make charming pets.

The Current Poodle Breed Standard (Part 1)

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The Current Poodle Breed Standard (Part 1)

The current Poodle breed standard was approved August 14, 1984, and reformatted March 27, 1990, by the Poodle Club of America. Again, except for height, the standard is the same for all 3 varieties. The breed standard refers to the ideal dog. No dog is ideal, however, and many dogs excluded from the show ring for minor faults make excellent pets.

Size: Here lies the only difference of note among the three varieties. The Standard Poodle is over 15 inches at the highest point of the shoulders and weighs 45 to 65 pounds. The Miniature Poodle is 15 inches or under at the highest point of the shoulders, with a minimum height in excess of 10 inches. He weighs 14 to 18 pounds, and is the most popular of the Poodle varieties today. The Toy Poodle is ten inches or under at the highest point of the shoulders. He weighs between 6 and 12 pounds. (European standards are somewhat different, dividing the breed into four size categories: Standard, Miniature, Dwarf, and Toy.)

The first Toy Poodles were nearly always white, but the other colors were introduced by breeding white Toy males to Miniature females of various colors. Today, Toys come in the same range of colors as Standards and Miniatures.

General Appearance: The standard states that the Poodle is a "very active, intelligent, and elegant-appearing dog, squarely built, well-proportioned, moving soundly and carrying himself proudly. Properly clipped in the traditional fashion and carefully groomed, the Poodle has about him an air of distinction and dignity peculiar to himself." That describes the Poodle most accurately.

At first, the English and American breed standards were identical. Both the English and the American Kennel Clubs recognized Standard and Miniature Poodles; both recognized all colors. Today, minor differences exist between the two. In America, the Toy Poodle must be under 10 inches; it is catagorized in the Toy Group, while the other two sizes are catagorized in the Non-Sporting Group. The English Toy Poodle is another inch higher, and all varieties of Poodle are catagorized in the Utility group.

The general appearance of the Poodle is square, meaning that "the length of body measured from the breastbone to the point of the rump approximates the height from the highest point of the shoulders to the ground."

Head and Expression: The proper Poodle has almond-shaped eyes which are "very dark" and "oval in shape." He should have "an alert intelligent expression." It is considered a major fault if the eyes are "round, protruding, large, or very light." The ears should hang "close to the head, set at or slightly below eye level."

The skull should be "moderately rounded, with a slight but definite stop." (The stop is where the muzzle meets the upper part of the skull.) The muzzle should be "long, straight, and fine with slight chiseling under the eyes." The ideal length is clearly defined; it should be the same as the "length from occiput [the back part of the skull] to stop." A muzzle that is too long is called "snipey" and is considered a fault.

Mixing Poodles With Young Children

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Mixing Poodles With Young Children

Poodles make wonderful family pets and they absolutely love all children! Poodles and children can be excellent companions. The well-bred Poodles good disposition makes him a trustworthy playmate, and his sense of humor makes him a child's favorite entertainer.

That's not to say every Poodle will be accepting of children. Some Poodles, the result of careless breeding, inherit less-than-sunny dispositions. Proper socialization and adequate training helps determine how accustomed a Poodle is to children. Health status, too, can affect the Poodles attitude toward kids. Older dogs, for example, can be grumpy due to illness. In fact, most all older dogs can become this way, regardless of the breed.

Also consider the Poodle size when it comes to the dog's safety. The diminutive Toy Poodle is much more delicate than the Miniature and Standard, thus less able to withstand the rough and tumble antics that are inevitable with children.

For the most part, if you have kids, a Poodle is a good choice. But be prepared to supervise all Poodle-child interactions. That's the key to any successful dog-child relationship: Adults must supervise to ensure the safety of both child and dog.

The degree of supervision varies, depending upon how old the child is and how old and well socialized the Poodle. Babies and toddlers need constant supervision when with pets. Never leave toddlers alone with animals (or another child). As the child grows and shows maturity, supervision may be decreased. While babies and young children should never be alone with the Poodle, older children (ages seven, eight, or nine) can, for example, play in the yard with the Poodle. Parents need not be right in the midst of the game, but should stay close by.

Along with supervision, parents should provide ongoing instruction for children in how to treat a pet kindly. Kids are not born knowing how to pet nicely; they must be taught. The best way to do that is for parents to model the desired behavior. Show the child how to pet with an open hand and not grab. Talk to the child as you demonstrate, explaining what you're doing and why. Keep your lessons short and simple. Kids will be kids, though, and will forget your instructions. That's where constant supervision comes in. You can observe how the child interacts with your Poodle and correct as needed.

How to Keep Your Aging Poodle Comfortable

How to Keep Your Aging Poodle Comfortable

Once your Poodle advances in years, how can you best care for your aging pet every day? "Give your Poodle whatever she wants to keep happy," suggests one aging Poodle owner. "She deserves it for being such a loyal and loving companion."

You can start by giving your Poodle a softer place on which to rest her aching bones and joints. Perhaps in her youth she was content to nap on a hard floor, but in old age a comfy bed is in order. Stiffness from osteoarthritis is made worse by sleeping on cold, damp ground or hard surfaces. You can purchase a soft bed at a pet-supply store or make one yourself with thick foam rubber (easily found at thrift stores) covered with a machine-washable, snug blanket. Place the bed in a dry, draft-free area of the house. Older dogs are sensitive to the extremes of heat and cold. Additionally, reduce stiffness by drying off your Poodle if she gets wet. Dry her thoroughly after bathing or an outing in wet weather. Make sure she doesn't get wet and stay damp.

An arthritic Poodle may find it difficult to bend down to eat and drink from bowls on the floor. Consider buying an eating table (a neck-level table with special cutouts for food and water bowls) for her. This will be more comfortable for the senior Poodle who is hesitant to bend her neck due to the stiffness of arthritis.

While an arthritic Poodle may wish to avoid activity because it's painful, there's nothing more beneficial to an older dog than a regular exercise program. Exercise improves muscle tone and strength, keeps joints moving, and keeps weight on target. The veterinarian can prescribe medication to reduce arthritic pain to make exercise possible.

Activity is essential, but you'll need to protect your arthritic Poodle from injury by modifying exercise and not allowing her to overdo it. Avoid jumping and other activities that wear down the joints more. Lift your olden poodle in and out of the car. Avoid stairs and rough play. Let her choose the pace she wants.

The aging Poodle needs more rest than she did in her younger years. If the Poodle is exercising on a regular basis and wishes to nap more, allow that. Just make sure you have a comfy bed handy.

The older Poodle is a creature of habit. She is not likely to appreciate sudden changes in routine, bed placement, food dishes, and activity. Keep such changes to a minimum, changing only what you must.

If you're planning a vacation, consider hiring a pet sitter to care for your Poodle at home
rather than take her to a boarding kennel. Older dogs don't tolerate drastic changes in their routine such as being away from home in a boarding kennel no matter how nice the place is. Keeping your old dog at home while you're away in the care of a trusted pet sitter is often your best option.

Grooming Your Poodle's Nails

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Grooming Your Poodle's Nails

At least once a month for adult Poodles and once a week for pups, you must tackle the grooming chore of nail trimming. Failing to trim your dog's nails can result in sore, splayed feet. How can you tell if your Poodle's nails are too long? Well, simply listen. Do you hear a click-click when she walks across the tile or linoleum floor? If you do, that means the nails are touching the floor - and they shouldn't be. Or, take a look at your Poodle s feet while she's standing. Do you see the nails touching the floor? The idea is to keep your Poodles nails trimmed back short enough so they don't touch.

There are two basic types of nail clippers: the scissors and the guillotine. You also can use a nail grinder, but it may take some time to get your dog used to the noise. If you use scissors or guillotine clippers, keep them sharp and clean. Dull clippers won't make a clean cut, and rusty, dirty ones can infect your dog if you cut too quick and your pet bleeds. The objective when clipping nails is to trim as close to the quick as possible without accidentally nicking it. Dark nails are more difficult to cut than light-colored ones, since it is impossible to see the pink vein.

Remove the dry looking hook at the tip of the nail, cutting off small bits of nail at a time. As you cut the nail shorter, you'll notice it becomes softer and you'll see a small grayish-white dot under the nail, which is the end of the quick. When you reach this point, the nail is short enough; you can now move on to the next one. Keep in mind that the more often you trim, the shorter you can get the nail, since the quick actually recedes with frequent trimming. Cut each nail as quickly and cleanly as possible; cutting slowly tends to pinch the nail and cause your dog discomfort.

To trim your Poodle's nails, hold one paw firmly in your left hand (if you're right-handed) and place your thumb on top of the foot. Place your fingers underneath the pads so you can spread the toes. With the clippers in your right hand, clip each nail right below the quick with short, decisive strokes. Don't forget the dewclaws if they were not removed when your Poodle was a pup.

Finish trimming the first paw, then file each nail with a metal file to remove sharp, rough edges that could scratch your legs if your Poodle is naughty and jumps up on you. DO NOT file any nails that have bled. Work your way to the next paw, trim each nail, then file.

If you accidentally cut too close, don't panic. Apply a styptic powder to staunch the bleeding and continue clipping the other nails. Don't stop and make a big fuss over your mistake, as it may make your dog even more apprehensive the next time you attempt to clip his nails.

A word of advice: start early. Poodles, like all dogs, must learn to accept new experiences. Begin nail trimming while your dog is a pup and do it every week. Between trimmings, handle the dogs feet to accustom her to being touched. The Poodle doesn't usually make a fuss about trimming, but it's still wise to-teach your dog to accept it from a young age. Before attempting to clip your Poodle s nails yourself, you may want to observe your groomer or veterinarian the first time.

When Is It Too Late To Train The Adult Poodle?

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When Is It Too Late To Train The Adult Poodle?

Although training is most effective when started early in the dog's life and practiced consistently while he grows up, that doesn't mean it's too late to train an adult Poodle. The downfall to starting training later in the dogs life is that you then have to break bad habits as well as teach new commands. With a young puppy, you're starting with a blank slate and you can teach the new behaviors before he learns bad habits.

If you've ever had to break a bad habit (smoking, for example), you know it can be difficult. However, with most Poodles up to about eight years of age, you can, with consistent training and lots of patience and positive reinforcements, control most bad habits.

If your dog is older than eight years of age, your success at changing bad habits will be much more limited. You can teach new commands - sit, down, stay, and heel - and your dog will be able to learn these without too much trouble. However, Poodles who have not learned to consistently come when called by the time they are eight years old will probably never be reliable.